Hiking at Desolation Peak in Washington State

The Pacific Northwest has some spectacular peaks. You will find something to satisfy climbers and backpackers of every skill and experience level. Always a tougher climb to push those skills to their limit. This article was written by a group of hikers and climbers who looked not so much for a tougher challenge as to relive the travels of an American legend – Jack Kerouac. There is no doubt that Jack had a different perspective than most of the people headed up Washington State’s Desolation Peak. Jack Kerouac was not a public figure when he headed up the mountain that rainy day, with supply mules in tow. This was another back road experience for him on his way to being published. He spent the summer of 1956 as a fire lookout to justify the time he spent in the high wilderness.

Ethan Todras-Whitehill’s full story can be had at Climbing a Peak That Stirred Kerouac. Ethan shares the details of finally seeing the “Stark naked rock, pinnacles and thousand feet high protruding from immense timbered shoulders … awful vaulty blue smokebody rock.” of Hozomeen’s awesome summit. Since two new film versions of his books are coming out, the real character that was Kerouc has again become a point of interest. The new film of “On the Road” with Kristen Stewart opened in December 2018 and another of “Big Sur,” with Josh Lucas and Kate Bosworth is due shortly. Whether you love his work or can’t stand it – or never heard of Jack Kerouac – this climb can help you appreciate the magnificent countryside and challenges that helped to shape his work.

From Ethan’s Tale

“The mile-long climb up the ridge brought ever grander views of fjord-like Ross Lake and moody Jack Mountain 7,000 feet above. At a couple of points, snatches of Hozomeen were visible, but it wasn’t until we were in calling distance of the lookout tower that we felt the mountain’s full impact. It wasn’t much for elevation at 8,071 feet — only 2,000 above Desolation — but, oh my, Hozomeen wasn’t human-looking, but rather monstrous. Kerouac frequently connected it to the Abominable Snowman, but to me it looked like the back of some Cascadian dragon, wings folded as it waited until night to hunt.” I found myself wishing to go there and see it too.

For information on accommodations and boat rides to Desolation and other spots on Ross Lake, visit rosslakeresort.com or call (206) 386-4437 (May to November).

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